What to See Between Sarria and Santiago: Must-Visit Monuments and Stops

The last 100 km are far more than kilometres

Many pilgrims walk the stretch from Sarria to Santiago staring only at the yellow arrows and the kilometre count. It is understandable: these are the minimum 100 km for the Compostela, and tired legs just want to arrive. But this final section of the Camino Francés is scattered with treasures that, if you don't stop, you lose forever.

Between Sarria and Santiago you will find 12th-century Romanesque churches, a Celtic hillfort right above the path, an intact medieval castle, Roman bridges and the finest food in Galicia. In this guide we walk you through, stop by stop, what truly deserves a photo, a visit or a fifteen-minute detour. And since we live right in the middle of this route, in Palas de Rei, we will also tell you about a few things just off the trail that most pilgrims never discover.

If you are still planning your trip, we recommend reading our guide to the last 100 km of the Camino de Santiago first, where we cover stages, distances and practical tips.

Sarria: the starting point

Sarria is kilometre zero for most pilgrims, and it is worth spending at least a morning here before setting off.

• Rúa Maior: the cobbled street climbing up to the old town, lined with crested houses and the bustle of departing pilgrims.
• Church of Santa Mariña: a common spot for the first pilgrim's mass.
• Convent of La Magdalena: a 13th-century monastery with Gothic and Renaissance elements, on the high part of town.
• Fortress tower: the only surviving piece of Sarria's medieval castle, beside the convent.

From Sarria, the path drops down towards the river and one of the greenest, most wooded sections of the whole route begins.

The km 100 marker: the obligatory photo

A few kilometres past Sarria, beyond the village of Ferreiros, you reach the stone marker showing 100 km left to Santiago. It is the most photographed milestone on the Camino Francés, usually covered in stickers, messages and shells left by pilgrims.

Architecturally it is nothing special — just a simple stone marker — but it is an emotional moment: from here on, your walk counts towards the Compostela. Arrive early if you want the photo without a queue.

Portomarín and its church moved stone by stone

Portomarín is, without doubt, one of the most unusual stops on the Camino. The village you see today is not the original one: old Portomarín was submerged under the Belesar reservoir in the 1960s. When the water drops in summer, remains of the old town and the old bridge still surface.

The most astonishing sight is the Church of San Nicolás (or San Juan), a 12th-century Romanesque fortress-church of the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem. Before the valley was flooded, it was dismantled stone by stone, each block numbered, and rebuilt on the high ground of the new village. Look closely at the numbers carved into the façade: they are the marks from that relocation.

• To reach the village you climb the stairway over the Miño bridge, with views of the reservoir.
• It is a good place to try Portomarín aguardiente, its most famous product.

If you want to explore this area further, we have a dedicated landing page for accommodation near Portomarín.

Castromaior: the Celtic hillfort above the Camino

Between Portomarín and Palas de Rei almost no one looks up to see it, but to the left of the path rises one of the best-preserved Celtic hillforts in Galicia. The Castro de Castromaior is a fortified Iron Age settlement, inhabited between the 4th century BC and the 1st century AD.

A short signposted detour takes you up to the walls and the excavated round dwellings. It is free, always open, and from the top there are splendid views of the valley. Just ten minutes of climbing that almost nobody does: a shame, because it is one of the oldest places on the entire Camino.

Palas de Rei: the perfect base for what few people see

Palas de Rei marks the midpoint between Sarria and Santiago, and it is far more than a passing stage. Two gems set out from here that most pilgrims never see because they lie just off the route. If you spend a night here, you have time to visit them.

Pambre Castle

About 8 km from the centre, Pambre Castle is the best-preserved medieval fortress in Galicia. Built in the 14th century, it was one of the few to survive the Irmandiño Revolts. Its four towers, its courtyard and its setting beside the Pambre river make it well worth a whole afternoon.

Church of Vilar de Donas

A few kilometres away, Vilar de Donas is a 12th-century Romanesque church, once the seat of the knights of the Order of Santiago. It preserves 15th-century medieval frescoes and the knights' tombs. It is an intimate, silent jewel, declared a National Monument, that few pilgrims know about.

In the town itself, don't miss the Romanesque church of San Tirso and, if you pass on a Friday, the weekly market. You will find more ideas in our guide to where to stay in Palas de Rei.

Furelos and its medieval bridge

On the way to Melide, just before entering the town, you cross the Furelos river over a beautiful four-arched medieval bridge. In the small church of San Xoán de Furelos there is a curious Christ with one arm unnailed, in the gesture of blessing the pilgrim. It is a five-minute stop that gives you one of the prettiest scenes of the whole section.

Melide: the kingdom of pulpo á feira

Melide is the gastronomic heart of the last 100 km and the point where the Camino Primitivo joins the Francés. The stop here is obligatory for one reason: **pulpo á feira** (Galician-style octopus). The town's century-old pulperías, such as Ezequiel or A Garnacha, serve octopus boiled in copper cauldrons, cut with scissors and dressed with olive oil, coarse salt and paprika.

Beyond the plate, Melide has its own heritage:

• Church of Santa María de Melide: Romanesque, with wall paintings in the apse.
• Melide stone cross: considered one of the oldest in Galicia.
• Museo da Terra de Melide: to understand the history of the region.

If you love Galician cooking, you will enjoy our guide to Galician cuisine on the Camino.

Arzúa, O Pedrouzo and the final stretch

From Melide onwards, the path enters eucalyptus forests and quiet hamlets.

• Arzúa: famous for its protected-origin cheese, Arzúa-Ulloa, creamy and mild. Try it in any bar in the centre.
• Ribadiso: one of the most photographed scenes, with its hostel beside the Iso river and a medieval bridge.
• O Pedrouzo: the last major stop before Santiago, ideal for sleeping and tackling the final push fresh.

Monte do Gozo: the first sight of Santiago

Just 5 km from the cathedral, Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy) is where pilgrims traditionally caught their first glimpse of the towers of Santiago Cathedral. Today there is a large modern monument and an esplanade overlooking the city.

Although Santiago's growth no longer lets you make out the towers as clearly as in the old days, it remains a deeply emotional moment: you know the end is within reach. From here, one last descent takes you straight to the Praza do Obradoiro.

Turning the Camino into a cultural journey

Visiting all these places at a calm pace completely changes the Camino experience. If you want to go beyond walking and discover the history, architecture and cuisine of each section with someone who knows the ground, the local agency OurWay.Travel, based in Palas de Rei, designs tailor-made guided experiences and cultural and gastronomic routes through this very area.

Casa Andaina: your base for the Galicia few people see

The best way not to miss Pambre Castle or Vilar de Donas is to sleep in the centre of Palas de Rei and dedicate an afternoon to them. Casa Andaina sits right on Rúa Mercado, on the Camino Francés and 65 km from Santiago.

We have 6 bedrooms across 2 independent apartments (sleeping 10 and 5), 2 fully equipped kitchens, 2 bathrooms with tub, fibre WiFi and central heating. The apartment is available from €140/night and the whole house from €250/night, always with direct booking and no commissions.

If you are looking for a comfortable base for your stage, see our options for Camino de Santiago accommodation and our current offers. Book by calling +34 982 204 131 and make Palas de Rei your base for exploring the best of the Camino.