Charming Villages Near Palas de Rei Worth Visiting

Charming Villages Near Palas de Rei Worth Visiting

Palas de Rei sits at the heart of inland Galicia, surrounded by a landscape of rolling hills, ancient forests and stone villages that have barely changed in centuries. Most pilgrims pass straight through on their way to Santiago, but those who linger discover a rural world rich in history, Romanesque art and traditions that predate the Camino itself.

If you are staying in Palas de Rei — whether walking the Camino or simply exploring Galicia — these villages are well worth a visit.

Vilar de Donas (8 km)

This tiny hamlet is home to one of Galicia's most important Romanesque monuments: the Church of San Salvador, declared a national historic monument. Built in the 12th century as the seat of the Knights of the Order of Santiago, it contains extraordinary medieval frescoes dating from the 14th and 15th centuries and stone tombs of the knights themselves.

The church is open to visitors (small donation appreciated) and the setting — amid fields and ancient oaks — is profoundly peaceful. Vilar de Donas lies just off the Camino and is an easy detour on foot or a 10-minute drive from Palas de Rei.

Leboreiro (11 km towards Melide)

One of the most photogenic stops on the entire Camino Frances. Leboreiro is a medieval village with a Romanesque bridge over the Rio Seco, a 13th-century church dedicated to Santa Maria and a cluster of traditional granaries (horreos) that line the path. The village appears in the Codex Calixtinus, the 12th-century pilgrim guide, and walking through its single stone street feels like stepping back 800 years.

It sits directly on the Camino between Palas de Rei and Melide, making it an easy stop on the Palas-Arzua stage.

Portomarin (25 km)

Portomarin has one of the most unusual histories of any Galician town. When the Belesar reservoir was built in the 1960s, the original village was flooded. Before the waters rose, the two Romanesque churches — San Nicolas and San Pedro — were dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt on higher ground. Today, the Church of San Nicolas dominates the new town's main square, a fortress-church that looks like nothing else in Galicia.

The town sits on the Camino one stage before Palas de Rei and is connected by road (30 minutes by car). The reservoir views are spectacular, and the town has good restaurants and a pleasant riverside walk.

Melide (15 km)

Melide is the octopus capital of Galicia. Pilgrims and locals alike queue at Pulperia Ezequiel or A Garnacha for plates of pulpo a feira — boiled octopus with olive oil, paprika and coarse salt. Beyond the gastronomy, Melide has a 14th-century stone cross (Cruceiro de Melide, one of the oldest in Galicia), the Church of Santa Maria and a small but interesting local museum.

Melide is also where the Camino Primitivo merges with the Camino Frances. The town is a 20-minute drive from Palas de Rei or a half-day walk on the Camino.

Monterroso (15 km south)

Off the Camino but worth the detour, Monterroso is a market town with a lively agricultural tradition. Its weekly market (Wednesdays) is one of the largest in the area, selling local cheeses, honey, vegetables and cured meats. The town also hosts the Festa do Queso (Cheese Festival) in spring, celebrating the famous Arzua-Ulloa cheese produced throughout this region.

Monterroso is 15 minutes by car from Palas de Rei and makes a good morning excursion combined with a drive through the A Ulloa countryside.

A Ulloa (the surrounding region)

A Ulloa is not a single village but a historical territory — a network of parishes, hamlets and farmland that surrounds Palas de Rei. It is the heartland of the Arzua-Ulloa cheese denomination of origin and one of the best-preserved examples of traditional rural Galicia.

Driving or cycling through A Ulloa, you will encounter Romanesque churches at almost every turn: San Miguel de Oleiros, Santiago de Lestedo, Santa Maria de Castelo. Each one modest, ancient and quietly beautiful. The landscape is a patchwork of pastures, stone walls and groves of chestnut and oak.

Making the most of the area

Many of these places also feature in our guide to things to do in Palas de Rei, and for the historical background of the area, read about the history of Palas de Rei. Using Palas de Rei as a base, you can explore all these villages within a day or two. Casa Andaina is centrally located in Palas de Rei with space for families and groups, a full kitchen to prepare meals with local market produce, and the kind of comfort that makes you want to stay an extra night.

The Camino de Santiago is the reason most people discover this corner of Galicia. The villages around Palas de Rei are the reason many wish they had stayed longer.