History of Palas de Rei: From Palatium Regis to the Camino de Santiago

History of Palas de Rei

Palas de Rei is far more than a stage on the Camino de Santiago. This municipality in the interior of Lugo province holds a history stretching back to Roman times, leaving its mark on every stone, every church and every place name in the region.

The origin of the name: Palatium Regis

The name Palas de Rei comes from the Latin Palatium Regis, meaning "Palace of the King". According to tradition, the Visigothic king Witiza (702-710) established his court here before moving to Toledo. While historians debate the exact accuracy of this account, the place name confirms the importance of the location as a seat of power during the Early Middle Ages.

Before the Visigoths, the area was already inhabited. The remains of Celtic hill forts (castros) in the surroundings — such as those at Vilar de Donas and Merlán — attest to human presence dating back to at least the 4th century BC.

Romanisation

Under Roman conquest, the Palas de Rei region became part of the province of Gallaecia. The Roman road linking Lucus Augusti (Lugo) with Iria Flavia (Padrón) crossed this territory — a route that centuries later would become part of the Camino de Santiago. Remains of Roman rural settlements (villae) have been found in several parishes across the municipality.

The Camino de Santiago and the Middle Ages

From the 9th century, with the discovery of the tomb of the Apostle James, Palas de Rei became an essential stop on the Camino Francés. The Codex Calixtinus (12th century), the first pilgrim guide, already mentions Palas de Rei as the end of the penultimate stage before Santiago.

During the Middle Ages, the municipality filled with pilgrim hospitals, Romanesque churches and monasteries serving the thousands of walkers crossing these lands each year. This tradition of welcoming pilgrims lives on today in accommodation like Casa Andaina, which continues to offer rest and hospitality to those walking the Camino.

The Castle of Pambre

The jewel of local heritage is undoubtedly the Castle of Pambre, built in 1375 by Gonzalo Ozores de Ulloa. It is one of the few Galician castles that survived intact through the Irmandiño Wars (1467-1469), the popular revolts against feudal nobility that destroyed most of the fortresses in Galicia.

The castle, declared a Site of Cultural Interest, stands on a promontory beside the River Pambre just 5 km from Palas de Rei. After careful restoration it is open to visitors and houses exhibitions on the history of the Camino. It is an essential excursion for anyone staying in the area.

Churches and Romanesque heritage

The municipality of Palas de Rei has an extraordinary concentration of Romanesque churches:

• San Tirso de Palas de Rei: In the town centre, with a 12th-century Romanesque doorway visible from the Camino itself.
• Vilar de Donas: 6 km from Palas, this 14th-century church was the seat of the Order of Santiago. It preserves unique medieval frescoes and tombs of knights of the order. Declared a National Monument.
• San Salvador de Vilar de Donas: Features Gothic murals depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin, considered among the finest in Galicia.
• San Xulián do Camiño: On the Camino path itself, 3 km from Palas, with 12th-century Romanesque elements.

Palas de Rei today

The municipality has around 3,200 inhabitants spread across more than 600 settlements, reflecting the dispersed rural structure typical of inland Galicia. The economy is based on livestock farming, agriculture and, increasingly, tourism linked to the Camino de Santiago.

Palas de Rei keeps alive its identity as a land of welcome. Pilgrims passing through find not just a bed and a meal, but a living piece of history that deserves more than one night to discover. To plan your visit, check our guide to things to do in Palas de Rei.